Author Archives: Horning's Greenhouse

How to Care for Your Window Boxes

Window boxes can provide plentiful gardening space in the city, even without a yard. Whether you live in an apartment, condominium, or row house, you can add window boxes for extra gardening, and with proper care, your window boxes can yield a delicious harvest, fragrant herbs, or stunning flowers for you to enjoy.

About Window Boxes

Window boxes aren’t just for windows, and there are many different shapes and designs to choose from. Over-the-railing boxes are ideal for decks and balconies, and wall-hanging boxes can make use of any vertical space. These versatile containers are available in different sizes, from small, compact containers to much deeper, larger options for even bigger vegetables and multiple plants.

Wood is the traditional material for window boxes and is still a favorite choice for many spaces. Plastic and resin models are also available and can be lighter weight, and metal frames with moss or coir liners are attractive rustic options. You can even get creative with window boxes and choose non-traditional styles, such as repurposing garden boots, apron pockets, tin pails, or other fun containers to make a window box that suits your space and style.

While decorative flowers remain a popular favorite for window boxes, you can grow anything you like in these containers. An herb garden is ideal for these small spaces, or you can choose miniature versions of all your favorite vegetables and fruits. Mix plants up for a diverse window box, and use taller plants, such as climbing vines or grasses, to add more height, while trailing plants such as creepers and dangling vines can spill out of the space for more drama.

Best Window Box Care

No matter what you plant in your window box, you will want to give it the proper care for excellent growth and the most vibrant plants.

  • Mount the box securely.
    Use the proper fasteners to mount your window box, and take into account its full weight as plants grow. Freshly watered, damp soil will be heavier, and the box needs to be secure to hold that weight. If you are placing the box on a railing, be sure the railing is sturdy and the box is not tipped or angled unsafely.
  • Choose appropriate plants for the space.
    Consider the sunlight your box will get when choosing which plants to grow in the space. The sun will shift throughout the season, and you want to be sure your plants have the levels of sunlight they require for their best growth. Also be sure the box provides enough depth for adequate root growth so the plants will be their healthiest, and be aware that window boxes may be subject to extra heat reflecting off glass or walls, so heat-tolerant plants are always a good choice.
  • Use high-quality, moisture-retaining soil.
    Window boxes need good quality potting soil to nurture plants, and which soil you choose will depend on whether you are growing vegetables, flowers, succulents, or herbs. Soil mixes with moisture-retaining granules are a great choice for window boxes and will help keep the plants watered so they stay lush, beautiful, and productive.
  • Water the box properly.
    Window boxes can dry out more quickly than traditional garden spaces and may need to be watered daily or even more than once a day depending on the box size, how the soil retains moisture and the watering needs of your plants. A watering wand can help you reach window boxes in more difficult places, or consider adding water globes to the box for a practical splash of color that will keep your plants watered.
  • Choose slow-release fertilizers for extra nourishment.
    A slow-release, liquid fertilizer is a great option for window boxes and will help provide all the nutrition your plants need. Choose a fertilizer blend that suits your plants’ requirements, and apply it once a week or at whatever rate is recommended for your box size and type of plants.
  • Groom your window boxes regularly.
    Because window boxes are such a small space, it can be easy to keep them looking their best with regular deadheading and other maintenance. Trim and prune plants as needed to help them retain their shape, always using good-quality hand tools with sharp blades for safe, smooth cuts. If you are growing edibles, harvest your produce regularly to encourage even more production.
  • Protect window boxes from sudden cold.
    Just like any plants, window box gardens can be damaged by cold snaps. Invest in appropriate plant covers to shield the boxes if the temperatures drop, and even consider bringing them indoors temporarily if a freeze is threatening. Adding a layer of insulation to the inside of a generous box, such as lining it with foam board, can also help protect delicate roots from possible cold and retain moisture throughout the season.

Add More Enjoyment to Your Window Boxes

Don’t be afraid to think outside the box with your window boxes. Any urban garden – even a small one at your windows or on your railings – can have quaint touches, such as adding a small bird feeder, a fairy garden, or a decorative garden stake or flag. These accents can help you personalize your box and truly make your small garden a relaxing and enjoyable space, no matter what its size or where you plant it.

How to Care for Your Windowboxes

How to Care for Your Windowboxes

How to Care for Your Windowboxes

How to Care for Your Windowboxes

Best Fruits for the Urban Garden

With the right plant picks, you can grow a bountiful feast of fruit in your urban garden. From your favorite fruit trees to succulent vines to bushes bursting with berry goodness, your urban garden can be highly productive, supplying delicious fruit for your nourishment and enjoyment.

What Fruits Need

Fruit-bearing plants need well-drained, loamy soil, adequate water for appropriate juiciness, and abundant sunlight for rich, productive growth. It can be a challenge to meet those needs in an urban environment, but your space may offer more resources than you realize. Study how sunlight moves through your garden space, including how shaded and sun-drenched areas change over time so you can best plan which plants to position for the best growth. Choose good quality potting soil if you’re planting in window boxes, pots, or containers, or amend your natural soil with appropriate compost and add the correct fertilizer to nourish hungry plants. Be prepared to water your plants adequately, particularly if natural rainfall isn’t enough for the plants’ needs. Regardless of the size of your garden space, you can meet fruits’ needs for a delicious and abundant harvest.

Best Fruits for Urban Gardening

The best fruits for urban gardens are those that keep compact shapes and adapt well to smaller spaces. They are also flexible with their sunlight needs, though most fruits require at least some full sun for the best production. Fruits that are well-suited to urban spaces include…

  • Apples
  • Blueberries
  • Bush cherries
  • Figs
  • Grapes
  • Peaches
  • pears
  • Plums
  • Raspberries
  • Strawberries

The exact fruits that will do well in your space will vary depending on your gardening zone and climate conditions. Pay particular attention to the number of chill hours fruits may need in order to produce, as this is critical to ensure a good harvest. Depending on the type of plant and its needs, you may even be able to move your gardening efforts indoors and cultivate some fruit plants without any outdoor gardening space at all!

Tips for Urban Garden Fruits

There are different ways to ensure your fruit plants, bushes, trees, and vines thrive in your unique space. To encourage the best growth and healthiest plants…

  • Choose plant cultivars that are self-pollinating and don’t require multiple pollinator plants to produce fruit.
  • Opt for berry cultivars that are everbearing or repeat-bearing to extend the harvest and get the most fruit from the fewest plants.
  • Provide adequate support with trellises, arbors, pergolas, or other structures that are sturdy enough to handle the mature plants’ size and the fruits’ weight.
  • Create layers of gardening space by using hanging pots and vertical structures that will give you even more room for planting.
  • Use plant stands on casters so you can move sun-loving plants around to take advantage of shifting light angles and maximize the plants’ productivity.
  • Choose dwarf or super-dwarf tree varieties that will not only thrive in smaller spaces but will also produce fruit when younger, so your first harvest is not delayed.
  • Dwarf fruit trees are perfect for espalier against a sunny wall.
  • Take steps to encourage bees and hummingbirds in your garden to aid pollination and keep your plants productive.
  • Use netting, reflectors, or other tactics to discourage birds that may raid your harvest even before the fruit has fully ripened.
  • Be alert for pests that may threaten your plants’ health and productivity, as they can find their way into any garden space – even indoors.

Growing fruit in the urban garden can be a tasty and enjoyable pastime, so long as you opt for fruits that will do best with the resources your space provides. By making the most of your space, you’ll easily have a fruitful harvest for all your favorite fresh fruits, homemade jams, preserves, sweet salads, baked goods, and other treats.

Best Fruits for the Urban Garden

Best Fruits for the Urban Garden

Best Fruits for the Urban Garden

Best Fruits for the Urban Garden

Wonderful Watermelon

Juicy, cool, and sweet watermelon is the perfect summertime treat, and no summer shindig is complete without this refreshing addition. Did you know that watermelon is also easy to grow? Impress your friends at your next summer soiree with the freshest fruit straight from the garden.

Let’s Begin

Watermelon may be grown from seed directly sown or from transplants. No need to rush; it’s best to make sure that both your air and your soil is warm before planting. Large fruiting watermelon plants take about 80 to 90 days to reach maturity: small fruiting varieties about 70 to 75 days.

Planting

Watermelons require deep, rich, nutritious soil to grow and taste their best. Plant your watermelon seeds, or transplants, in a sunny location about 6 feet apart and provide plenty of room for the vines to sprawl. Dig a large hole in your garden bed, about 1 foot deep and wide, and amend it with plenty of high-quality compost. If planting in a raised bed, which is an excellent way to grow watermelon, the bed may be filled with a raised bed mix or topsoil amended with plenty of compost.

Feeding

Fertilize your watermelon plants when they emerge from the soil or at transplant time, again when vines begin to sprawl, and one last time at fruit set with an organic fertilizer recommended for fruits and vegetables.

Watering

Watermelons require ample and consistent water to grow their sweetest and juiciest. Stopping supplemental watering about two weeks before the fruit is ready to harvest will allow for sugar concentration, creating a sweeter fruit.

Tips

  • Mulch the area where the vines will run with a thick layer of mulch. Salt marsh hay or straw are perfect choices. Mulching will keep the developing fruit off the ground, helping it remain clean and preventing it from rotting on moist soil.
  • Watermelons are ready to harvest when the tendrils near the fruit turn brown, the under area of the fruit turns from white to a pale yellow, the green complexion becomes dull, and there is a hollow sound when you knock on the fruit with your knuckles.

The summer growing season is just beginning, and there’s still time to plant plenty of watermelons to impress your guests!

Watermelon

Watermelon

Watermelon

Growing Glowing Marigolds

Ah, marigolds – they are the unsung heroes of the summer flower garden. Resilient, bold, and long-blooming, they create a tapestry of glowing yellow, gold, orange, and red that shines in a sunny setting from late spring to frost.

Types

There are three main types of marigolds. They all have edible petals, are perfect for creating natural dyes, attract bees and butterflies, and share a distinct aroma that helps ward off some common garden pests. Yet, each type, with its own individual size and shape, holds a unique position in the garden.

French Marigolds (Tagetes patula)

French marigolds are compact, bushy plants with delicate, lacy foliage and brightly colored blooms in orange, yellow, and red shades. They are perfect for border edging, adorning container gardens, or nestled next to your vegetable plants. Their small size will not overshadow other plants in the edible garden.

African Marigolds (Tagetes erecta)

Taller than French marigolds, African marigolds exhibit larger, more showy flowers in creamy white, yellow, gold, and orange shades. They are the perfect addition to the middle of a bright-colored flower bed or border. Their statuesque form and long, sturdy stems make them an exquisite choice for cut flower arrangements.

Signet Marigolds (Tagetes tenuifolia)

With their delicate, fern-like foliage, Signet Marigolds are small in stature and produce tiny blooms in warm tones of red, orange, and yellow. With a citrusy flavor, these edible flowers look lovely as a garnish and taste delicious in salads. Signets work well for border edging, sunny window boxes, and containers.

Marigold Cultivation & Care

Marigolds are simple plants, easy to grow, with few demands. They aren’t fussy, but they do have some preferences.

  • Site: They flower best with a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight.
  • Soil: Regarding soil, they are partial to a well-draining one, rich in organic matter, with a pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. If you’ve got sandy loam soil, you’ve hit the jackpot in the marigold world.
  • Pinching: Marigolds benefit from pinching when young, creating a fuller plant with plenty of side branching and blooms.
  • Feeding: Add granular organic or slow-release fertilizer to the soil at planting time, then feed plants every other week with a liquid fertilizer listed for flowering annuals.
  • Mulching: Adding a layer of mulch to the soil around your plants will help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds; plus, it looks great!
  • Watering: Deep, infrequent watering that allows the soil to dry out in between is what marigolds desire.
  • Deadheading: Frequently remove spent flowers to keep fresh blooms coming.

The 10 Best Marigolds for Your Home Garden

Select marigolds for a splash of sunshine in summer containers and gardens. There’s something about these vibrant flowers that just makes you smile! Here’s a curated list of the top 10 marigold varieties to brighten your growing space.

  1. French Marigold ‘Petite Mix’
    Imagine a kaleidoscope of colors from yellow and orange to deep maroon in your garden. The ‘Petite Mix’ is a dwarf variety, perfect for the foreground of borders and beds. Its small stature packs a punch of color that will dazzle you all summer long.
  2. African Marigold ‘Crackerjack’
    Standing tall and proud, ‘Crackerjack’ offers large, fluffy blooms that resemble the sun. This variety is a beacon of joy with its bright yellow and orange flowers, inviting butterflies to the garden.
  3. Signet Marigold ‘Tangerine Gem’
    Like little drops of citrus delight, ‘Tangerine Gem’ will light up your garden. Its dainty, edible flowers present a unique zest to salads. Plus, its lacy foliage makes it a visually attractive ground cover.
  4. French Marigold ‘Durango Red’
    Add some spice to your garden with ‘Durango Red.’ Its deep, velvety red blooms edged with gold bring an exotic flair. Compact and resilient, this marigold does wonders for container gardening.
  5. African Marigold ‘Mission Giant Yellow’
    The name says it all! ‘Mission Giant Yellow’ towers over other garden plants, bringing a majestic presence. Its massive, bright yellow blooms are a stunning focal point for any sunny spot.
  6. Signet Marigold ‘Lemon Gem’
    Sister to ‘Tangerine Gem,’ ‘Lemon Gem’ offers lemony yellow blossoms that sparkle against its feathery green foliage. It’s not just their appearance; these flowers also have a delightful lemony fragrance.
  7. French Marigold ‘Harlequin’
    A true showstopper, ‘Harlequin’ boasts bi-colored petals in fiery shades of red and gold. This marigold variety adds a dramatic flair to your garden, attracting attention wherever it blooms.
  8. African Marigold ‘Vanilla’
    For those who prefer a softer palette, ‘Vanilla’ offers creamy white flowers that provide a soothing contrast to the typical marigold colors. Its unexpected soft coloring will make visitors do a double-take.
  9. Signet Marigold ‘Paprika’
    Spice up your garden with ‘Paprika’. This variety features tiny, rustic orange blossoms scattered across a bush of green. It’s perfect for adding a sprinkle of warmth to your sunny containers and window boxes.
  10. French Marigold ‘Bolero’
    And last but certainly not least, ‘Bolero’ dances in your garden with its red and yellow fringed petals. It’s as if each flower is celebrating the joy of sunny days, inviting you to join in the festivity.

Each marigold variety brings its unique character to your summer garden, creating a tapestry of color and splash of splendor. Plan on growing a wide variety of marigolds this summer to grace your gardens with their warm, glowing colors, delightful flowers, unique fragrance, easy care, and long bloom time.

Growing Glowing Marigolds

Growing Glowing Marigolds

Growing Glowing Marigolds

Milkweed and Monarchs

In nature, few relationships are as intricate and essential as that between the Monarch butterfly and the milkweed plant. Famous for being the most recognized insect in the US, these vibrant winged beauties rely on milkweed not only for sustenance but for their very survival. Sharing this fascinating relationship between Monarchs and milkweed with you, we’ll explore how this plant supports every stage of the butterfly’s life cycle.

Birthplace and Sanctuary:

Milkweed, genus Asclepias, serves as the cradle of life for Monarch butterflies. Female Monarchs lay their eggs exclusively on milkweed plants, offering them a safe haven as they undergo their transformation from egg to caterpillar to chrysalis to butterfly.

Caterpillar Cuisine:

Once the Monarch eggs hatch, the tiny caterpillars feast voraciously on milkweed leaves. These particular leaves provide the essential nutrients needed for the caterpillars to grow rapidly. As they munch on the leaves, they accumulate toxins from the milkweed sap, making them distasteful and even poisonous to potential predators. This unique adaptation is crucial for the survival of Monarch caterpillars in the wild.

Metamorphosis Station:

As the caterpillars mature, they undergo a miraculous transformation within their chrysalis, emerging as fully-formed adult butterflies. Milkweed habitats provide the ideal environment for this metamorphosis to occur. Not only is milkweed the favored source of food, but the structure of milkweed plants, with their sturdy stems and broad leaves, offers ample space for Monarch chrysalises to hang securely until the butterflies emerge.

Fueling the Journey:

During their remarkable migration journeys, Monarch butterflies rely on milkweed for sustenance. Nectar from milkweed flowers serves as a vital energy source, fueling their long flights across continents. As they journey thousands of miles from their breeding grounds to overwintering sites and back again, Monarchs depend on the abundance of milkweed along their migratory routes.

Conservation Connection:

The decline of milkweed habitats poses a significant threat to Monarch populations. Factors such as habitat loss, pesticide use, and climate change have led to a decline in milkweed availability across North America. Efforts to conserve and restore milkweed habitats are essential for ensuring the survival of Monarch butterflies. By planting milkweed in home gardens, individuals can contribute to the preservation of this vital butterfly species. Selecting the appropriate milkweed species is crucial for attracting Monarchs. While there are over 100 species of milkweed native to North America, some varieties are particularly favored by Monarchs, and many are region-specific.

Milkweed Species for Northeast and Midwest

In the Mid-Atlantic States, there are several native milkweed species that are crucial for Monarch Butterflies. Here are some of them, along with their details:

Common Milkweed (A. syriaca)

Common milkweed is perhaps the most well-known milkweed species.

It typically grows in tall clusters and produces pink to purplish flowers. It is most often found in a variety of habitats, including fields, meadows, and roadsides.

Swamp Milkweed (A. incarnata)

As the name suggests, swamp milkweed is often found in wetter habitats like marshes, wet meadows, and along stream banks. It has clusters of pink to mauve flowers. Swamp milkweed is an excellent choice for wetter areas where other milkweed species might not thrive.

Butterfly Weed (A. tuberosa)

Butterfly weed is known for its vibrant orange flowers and is a favorite among gardeners. It prefers well-drained soil and is often found in dry fields, along roadsides, and in open woods. While it’s not as commonly used by Monarch larvae as some other milkweed species, it’s still an important nectar source for adult butterflies.

Poke Milkweed (A. exaltata)

This milkweed species has tall, slender stems and delicate, pale pink flowers. It’s typically found in shaded woodlands and along forest edges. While it’s not as widespread as some other milkweed species, it’s still an important host plant for Monarch caterpillars where it occurs.

Whorled Milkweed (A. verticillata)

Whorled milkweed is characterized by its narrow leaves and small clusters of white flowers. It’s found in a variety of habitats, including dry fields, open woods, and roadsides. While it may not be as common as some other milkweed species, it’s still valuable for Monarch butterflies, particularly in areas where other milkweeds may not grow as well.

These native milkweed species will not only provide an essential habitat for Monarch Butterflies but also support other native pollinators in your area. Make sure to choose species that are appropriate for your specific region and growing conditions.

Cultivating Milkweed for Butterfly Abundance

Are you ready to invite the mesmerizing beauty of Monarch butterflies into your garden? Cultivating milkweed isn’t just about growing a plant; it’s about fostering an ecosystem, supporting biodiversity, and witnessing the awe-inspiring journey of one of nature’s most iconic creatures – the Monarch butterfly.

Now that you’ve chosen your milkweed varieties, it’s time to roll up your sleeves and get gardening! Here’s a general step-by-step guide to growing milkweed in the garden to create a haven for Monarchs.

  1. Site Selection
    Choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-drained soil. Although some exceptions exist, most milkweed plants prefer full sun but can tolerate partial shade.
  2. Soil Preparation
    Milkweed isn’t overly picky about soil type but does prefer soil that’s not too compacted. Loosen the soil to a depth of about 6 inches and amend with compost if necessary.
  3. Planting
    Sow milkweed seeds directly in the ground in early spring after the danger of frost has passed. If you prefer to start with seedlings, transplant them into your garden with plenty of space between plants to accommodate their mature size.
  4. Watering
    Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during the plant’s early growth stages. Once established, milkweed is relatively drought-tolerant.
  5. Maintenance
    Milkweed is generally low-maintenance, but removing weeds around young plants can help them thrive. Deadheading spent flowers can encourage continuous blooming and prevent self-seeding if desired.
  6. Ongoing Support
    Embrace the biodiversity that milkweed attracts by avoiding the use of pesticides and herbicides in your garden. Encourage beneficial insects and pollinators to make themselves at home alongside your Monarchs.

As your milkweed garden flourishes, so too will the population of Monarch butterflies that grace your outdoor oasis. By cultivating milkweed, you’re not just growing a plant – you’re fostering a connection to nature, supporting wildlife conservation efforts, and creating a sanctuary for Monarchs to thrive. So, roll out the floral welcome mat and prepare to be enchanted by the majestic beauty of Monarch butterflies in your own backyard.

Milkweed and Monarchs

Milkweed and Monarchs

Milkweed and Monarchs

Spring Lawn Renovation

Spring is the ideal time to spruce up your lawn. After a long winter, you can easily see where any bald, bare or thin patches exist, as well as where weeds or fungus may be taking over the lawn. Fortunately, there are easy ways to set your lawn to rights!

Seeding

If you are planning to seed a new lawn or overseed an existing lawn, it is best to seed as early as possible. It is important to get seed germinated and growing before trees begin to leaf out, when the trees will be usurping more of the soil’s moisture and nutrition and new leaves will block sunlight from the grass seed. This is especially true in more heavily shaded areas. Keep the area moist at all times until the roots of grass seed become established, then you can gradually decrease the frequency of watering. The new grass can be mowed when it reaches a height of about three inches.

Rejuvenating a Weak Lawn

Your lawn cannot live without air, water and nutrients, but decaying material matted down between grass blades can smother even the healthiest-looking lawn. This decaying material is called thatch, and when a thick layer of thatch builds up, water and fertilizer may run off instead of penetrating the soil. Aerating and dethatching can help rejuvenate a lawn by restoring passageways to the soil. Late spring is an excellent time to dethatch cool-season grasses. Thatching rakes can be used, or you can use a metal rake to remove thatch by hand.

Adusting pH 

The pH of your soil has a direct impact on the health of your lawn. Test your soil to determine the pH (simple kits are available to do this). We recommend a small handful of soil taken from a depth of 3 inches to get the most accurate reading. At a pH of 6.8-7.0 nutrients are most readily available to turf grasses, and beneficial microorganisms are more active to decompose thatch and keep the soil structure healthy. If your pH is too low or too high, consider amending the soil as needed to help bring it to a more desirable level.

Crabgrass Control

On established lawns that you are not overseeding, apply a fertilizer with crabgrass control in early to mid-April. Straight Team products can be applied with separate fertilizers like Espoma Organic 18-8-6 or similar fertilizers. Reapply Team in early to mid-June for the second germination of crabgrass. Remember, crabgrass seeds start to germinate when the soil temperature reaches 50-58 degrees. Use corn gluten as an organic alternative for crabgrass control on an established lawn.

On newly seeded lawns and those seeded in late fall or during the winter months, use a starter fertilizer with crabgrass control. You will need to reapply in four weeks or however the manufacturer’s instructions indicate. Proper applications will keep your new lawn crabgrass-free.

Maintaining your lawn at a higher level, 4 inches, throughout the growing season will allow you to control crabgrass without the use of chemicals. Taller grass will shade out the crabgrass seed preventing it from germinating.

Insect Controls

An early season application of Merit or a similar insecticide will provide effective white grub control for the growing season. This preventative method tends to give better results than applying insecticides when you notice damage as it then may be too late. If you have routinely had problems with other insects, opt for products specifically targeted for those pests to ensure effective control.

A lot goes into having a lush, healthy lawn, but if you take the appropriate steps to rejuvenate your lawn in spring, you’ll be rewarded with thick, healthy, resilient turf to enjoy from early spring until snow flies again.

spring_lawn_3

spring_lawn_1

Grass sprinkler

Pruning Forsythia

Forsythia is a true spring favorite and never disappoints with its shocking yellow blooms atop a mass of unruly branches. This early-flowering shrub can thrive for decades on neglect but there will come a time, whether out of want or necessity, that your forsythia will require pruning. But how can you do so without dampening the ferocious spring flame these spring shrubs produce?

Why Prune Forsythia?

When this shrub does so well without detailed care, why is it necessary to prune it at all? In many landscapes, if the shrub is properly sited, it may not need pruning. Unfortunately, many people underestimate the vigorous growth of these beauties, and in just a few years it may seem crowded and overgrown in a corner, narrow bed or border. A large, unruly forsythia may also seem overwhelming in a smaller space or when paired with less vigorous plants. Damage or illness may also create a misshapen or unbalanced plant that is no longer so pleasing to the eye. In these cases, judicious pruning can rejuvenate and refresh the shrub and give new life to its part of the landscape.

Rejuvenating Forsythia

Rejuvenating an old, out of shape and poorly flowering forsythia is simple. After the shrub has finished flowering in late spring, cut all the branches back to within one foot of the ground. When branches put on new growth, reaching two feet from the ground, prune all branch tips to the first set of side shoots. This will help develop a fuller, thicker shrub for a more lush look. Be aware, however, that it will take until the second bloom season for a severely pruned forsythia to return to its former splendor.

A newer forsythia that is just a few years old can be kept in tip-top shape a bit more easily. Each spring, after it flowers, cut up to one-third of the branches back to the ground. Choose dead branches, branches thicker than your thumb and all crossed or inward facing branches. This will help create a good form with healthy air circulation and pleasing growth for years of beauty and enjoyment.

It’s easy to keep forsythia looking stunning for many years. Whether you want to make the most of the forsythia already in your yard or want to add this beauty to your landscape, stop by – our landscaping experts can help you choose the best species for your yard and needs so you can enjoy its beauty for many springs to come.

forsythia-1

Azaleas – An American Favorite

Azaleas are true garden favorite and are popular in all types of landscape designs. To keep them blooming prolifically and as beautiful as they can be, however, you will need to follow a few special directions for their best care.

Planting Azaleas

Azaleas need a well-drained location, as they will not thrive in an area that stays overly wet. They prefer afternoon shade, and too much sun can harm their leaves and fade the flowers, depleting their beauty. For their best growth, it is important to shelter azaleas from drying winds. The best locations in the landscape will be along the north, northeast or east side of a building or stand of evergreens or in the filtered shade under tall trees.

Azaleas may be planted any time of the year, even when in full bloom. Spring and early fall are ideal planting times so the plants are not stressed by the heaviest summer heat. Before planting, loosen the matted roots with a hand cultivator so they can spread and establish more easily.

To give azaleas the excellent drainage they require, they should be planted high, with half the root ball above the existing ground level in a hole at least twice as wide as the root ball. Amend the planting soil to provide good nutrition for these hungry plants. Once the plant is set in the planting hole, fill in around it with the planting mix, packing firmly to eliminate air pockets. Mound soil up to top of root ball. Water shrubs thoroughly with a diluted plant starter fertilizer to encourage root growth and help them establish more quickly. Mulch 2-3 inches deep over the planting hole, with mulch pulled away from plant stem to avoid insect infestations and rotting.

Watering Azaleas

Spring and summer plantings should be watered 2-3 times per week until fall the year they are planted, then once a week until Christmas. Plants may need to be watered as often as once a day if they are small or the weather is hot. Always check the soil moisture level before watering. It should be lightly moist several inches down, but if it is drying out more frequent watering may be needed. In following years you will need to water your azaleas about once a week unless there is a good soaking rain. Plants will need more water in hot summers and while in flower to keep their growth and form lush.

The Need for Mulch

Mulching around azaleas is always a good idea, and can help them thrive. A 2-4″ layer of mulch should be maintained at all times over the root area of the plant, but pulled away from the stems. This keeps the soil cool and moist, helps control weeds and protects roots in winter.

Pruning Azaleas

Azaleas rarely need to be pruned. When pruning is required it should be done immediately after blooming, since if you wait to prune until summer you may cut off next year’s blooms and miss an entire flowering season. Azaleas may be sheared, as they will send out new shoots anywhere on a branch, or you may choose hand-pruning to create a neater form.

With a bit of considerate care, azaleas can be a showstopper in your landscape. Stop by today for help choosing the best azaleas and learning all you need to know to keep them gorgeous year after year!

azaleas

Aphids

One of the most common insects, and one of the most potentially plant-threatening, is the aphid. There are actually many types of aphids – more than 4,000 in all. Some feed on specific plants and others are not so choosy. They all attack the newer plant growth and suck sap from a plant’s internal circulation system, the phloem, in stems and leaves. This can decrease the plant’s growth rate, discolor or disfigure leaves, cause galls to form and transmit plant diseases. Strong aphid infestations can lower produce yields and eventually kill plants altogether.

Recognizing Aphids

Aphids – also called plant lice, blackflies and greenflies – are easy to recognize. They’re about one-eighth to one-third of an inch long, usually pale green but can be almost colorless, pink, black or brown. Their pear-shaped bodies have six legs, small tail-like structures and long, jointed antennae. Aphids are soft-bodied and are mainly found in dense groups on the underside of new plant growth, where they leave behind a sticky residue called honeydew. Ants are attracted to aphid honeydew, so a nearby ant infestation or very active ant colonies may also indicate that aphids are present. Aphids are most common in spring, and die off rapidly in the hot temperatures of summer.

Controlling Aphids

Fortunately, controlling aphids is fairly easy. Most full-spectrum chemical insecticides kill aphids. Other, less strenuous products include plant extracts, neem oil, plant oils and insecticidal soap water sprays. A regular spraying with strong blasts of water or hand picking will control many infestations, especially when just a few aphids have been noticed. Many gardeners release ladybugs (lady beetles) to eat the aphids or parasitic wasps to lay their eggs in the aphid, but because these natural predators will quickly spread out, large applications of hundreds of predators may be needed to effectively control an aphid infestation. Another option is to encourage insect-eating birds to visit the yard – chickadees, titmice and warblers all especially love aphids and can provide superior natural pest control. Even hummingbirds will happily munch on aphids.

It’s best to control aphids early. As their numbers increase, the drying leaves begin to roll over them, thus protecting the aphids from controls such as soaps, oil and water sprays, and making it harder to effectively eliminate these pests. If you think you have aphids or you’re not sure what you have, bring in a sample. We’ll take a look and suggest the best way to eliminate the problem and help you protect your plants.

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Growing Veggies in Containers

Do you dream of a delicious, homegrown harvest but don’t have the land to use? No longer should a shortage of garden space prevent you from growing your own fresh vegetables. As long as you have a sunny location you can have your own mini-farm on your porch, patio, deck, balcony, roof-top or doorstep!

Why Use Containers?

The benefits of growing containerized vegetables go beyond the issue of space. There are plenty of other compelling reasons to plant your veggies in pots, including…

  1. Vegetables are amazingly ornamental and can be just as decorative as any other container plants or flowers.
  2. There are fewer problems with pests such as groundhogs, deer and rabbits and soil borne diseases.
  3. The soil in pots warms up more quickly in the spring allowing for earlier planting and an extended growing season.
  4. Less bending, squatting and kneeling is required for gardeners with limited mobility.

Vegetables can be grown in any vessel that can hold soil, has adequate drainage and is large enough to hold a plant. There are endless options available on the market or you may recycle items that you already have as long as they meet these requirements. Use your imagination – try a wheelbarrow, wine barrel or just a plastic bin, and you’re ready to plant!

Best Vegetables for Containers

While all veggies can be grown in containers, some are better suited than others. Plants that grow particularly large, that sprawl or that must be grown in large numbers to ensure an adequate yield may take more effort and careful site planning with an adequate container. Similarly, vining plants need not be avoided. Trellis these plants up against a wall or fence or allow them to cascade down from a taller pot or a container placed up high like on a stone wall. For smaller selections, a hanging basket or window box may be used. Many sprawling and vining vegetables are now available by seed in dwarf, compact or bush varieties. These are bred specifically for small spaces and containers and are worth seeking out.

Tips for Container Vegetable Gardens

Growing vegetables in containers does take some unique thought and isn’t quite the same as planting in a traditional garden. When planning your delicious container garden, consider…

  • Containers: Size matters when planting in containers. The bigger the container, the more soil it can hold. More soil more and more moisture means less watering. Take note that porous containers like terra cotta dry out more quickly and will therefore require more frequent watering.
  • Soil: When planting, choose a good quality potting mix. Soil from the ground may contain insects or disease or may be too heavy. Add an all-purpose balanced fertilizer at time of planting. It is also good idea to mix water absorbing polymers into the soil. These granules can hold up to 400 times their weight in water and help reduce watering from 30-50 percent.
  • Plants: Some of the vegetables that you select may be directly seeded into your container; these would include peas, beans, radishes and corn. With most vegetables you may wish to transplant seedlings into your container, either home-grown or garden center purchased. You will generally find a wider selection of vegetable varieties and unique options available in seed as opposed to purchased seedlings, if you want to use your containers experimentally.
  • Supports: Supports should be placed at time of planting for large or vining plants. This will ensure the young plants are not disturbed or damaged with supports added at a later time. If the supports are outside the container, however, they can be added only when they are needed.
  • Location: Your vegetables will require at least 6 hours of direct sun a day. If this is not possible you may try placing your pots on dollies or carts and moving them to a sunnier location as the sun moves throughout the day. Note that good air circulation is important for disease control.
  • Watering: Test soil frequently for water to make sure that you keep it evenly moist. Water the soil, not the plants, to avoid the spread of disease. Check soil moisture more frequently during the summer months when evaporation is faster. Mulching your containers with salt hay or grass clippings will help keep soil cool during the summer months and reduce the frequency of watering. If possible, a drip system can be a great option for keeping containers watered.
  • Fertilization: Fertilizer leaches through pots quickly. Fertilize containerized vegetables at least once a week with a water soluble fertilizer. Always be careful to follow the directions on the fertilizer package and follow the recommended rate. Too much fertilizer may burn or kill your plants, but too little will result in undernourished, underperforming plants.

With appropriate care that caters to the needs of containers, your small-scale vegetable garden can be just as lush and productive as any larger, more intensive space, and you’ll soon have a bountiful harvest to enjoy.